We Begin...
Eagles
School's out and so are we. Waking up in Inati Bay, we thought we had it all to ourselves. But, these two eagles soon let us know that we were trespassing in their territory!(Clicking on pictures makes them bigger)
Inati Bay is only seven miles, SW of Bellingham, on Lummi Island.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Islands
Headed out of Inati Bay, we pass Vendovi, Cypress, Eliza and Sinclair Islands. We are making for Obstruction Pass (north side of Obstruction Island, between Orcas and Blakely Islands) under the watchful eye of Mt Baker.
Blind Bay
Safely through Obstruction Pass, we make our way to Blind Bay, Shaw Island.
We pass a tee pee...
we pass a Washignton State ferry...
and glide into Blind Bay, another anchorage all to ourselves. With fuel at over $5 per gallon, we are beginning to notice a distinct lack of power boats at anchorages and under way! Ah, too bad. Without them around we have safe, quiet passages, a cleaner environment and anchorages to ourselves. We will miss them!
Sunday, June 22, 2008
From the San Juan Islands to the Gulf Islands
We pick up Kristin around noon, at Orcas, across Harney Channel from Blind Bay, and then have a rare but beautiful sail (you usually have to motor here, due to fluky winds) across the top of Shaw Island, and through the Wasp Islands. Turning north, we dodge west around Jones Island and let the current and south wind take us north, past the east ends of Speiden and Stuart Islands and across Boundary Pass, leaving the USA's San Juan Islands and heading into Canada's Gulf Islands.
Now, we could check in at Canadian customs anywhere, but for some reason we always wind up clearing at Bedwell Harbor, South Pender Island and home of Poet's Cove resort. Hmmm, I wonder why we would want to go here?
After clearing customs, a swim, and shower for Kelly and I, we see that the winds and current are still favorable and these long summer days promise plenty of light. So, back aboard Trust Me, we head north again, and make Annette Bay on Prevost Island a little after sunset, but with plenty of daylight to anchor.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Annette Bay to Ganges
After a lazy morning of breakfast and dinghying in Annette Bay, watching sea otters, osprey and eagles fish all around us, we decide that it's time to slide on over to Ganges, just a few miles north. Again, it is a gentleman's sail downwind, and we make our dramatic entrance, wing on wing.
Our usual anchorage is here, way up by Moby's Pub. It's a great anchorage as the water is shallow and it's close to everything. The only problem with it is that our anchor never holds here...a minor issue.
After exploring ashore with Kristin, sampling gelato, tea shops, pubs and art galleries, and some gift shopping, it was time for dinner at our favorite restaurant, the Tree House Cafe. Yes, it's actually built around a live tree.
As we enjoyed our delicious meals and evening fell,Trust Me swung faithfully at anchor, and music filled the air. We had the best seats in the house as a true Irishman joined with two local musicians (percussion and bass) to perform original Irish folk music and a few covers of our favorite Irish folk musician, Van Morrison. The Tree House Cafe has excellent live music every evening in the summer!
After the concert, we dinghy back to Trust Me...a perfect evening. Little did we know that the wind would turn, right in the middle of a midnight game of Rummy. And once again our anchor would fail to reset on a wind change, in Ganges. Nothing like a little excitement and exercise at 1:00 am to help you sleep in the next day.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Goodbye Ganges, Mornin' Montague
In the morning, we do our traditional fuel top off (three quarters of a gallon!) and beat upwind the the mile or two to Captain Pass, and fall off onto a gorgeous reach, east, toward Montague Harbor, on Galiano Island. Once again, there are hardly any boats in this huge anchorage. If this if due to fuel prices, we hope they will go even higher!
We go ashore and try a new hike to Active Pass on the south end of the island and are rewarded with spectacular views from the top of the bluffs. Giant BC ferries (dwarfed by the heights) pass within yards of each other through the narrow gap. 
Jim finds a lucky pirate sword and successfully defends Kelly and Kristin from the many dangers found on Galliano! Don't the powerboaters and the seagull, below, look dangerous?
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Montague to Wallace
We just can't believe how lucky we have been with weather, so far. Every sunrise and sunset is just beautiful. We depart Montague in this direction, headed north again, with current and wind from the south helpfully pushing us along through Trincomali Channel...
Looking out the entrance to Conover Cove. Don't try this at home..it's shallow! In fact, don't try this, at all, unless it's high tide!
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Wallace Island
Kelly and I discovered Wallace Island when we lived nearby in Maple Bay. It's one of our all time favorite places in the Gulf Islands. Why do we like Wallace Island so much? Well, there is quiet, long hikes, and a story about a resort here, decades ago, involving Marilyn Monroe and this building. Can you can imagine this used as a shelter by well-heeled "campers?" Today, tradition requires cruisers who are passing through to leave a momento...
Kelly and I left one here years ago, and somehow, we found it amongst the thousands that are there...
there is fabulous hiking...
plenty of wildlife, like this woodpecker caught in silhouette...
the usual bizarre sandstone formations created by the water...
and the Canadian military, trying to look as busy as the US ships patrolling their side of the border!
Friday, June 27, 2008
Wallace to Maple Bay
We reluctantly weigh anchor, this time headed south down the west side of Salt Spring Island (after cruising up the east side) and toward Maple Bay, where Kelly and I once lived on a float home (or what we, in the US, call a houseboat).
Maple Bay is kind of pretty...
especially the float homes where we used to live...
Europeans we met there often remarked that Maple Bay reminded them of little Swiss towns in the Alps...
the Alps or not, there is a picture, here, nearly everywhere you turn...
even if you look up!
Hopefully, those buzzards, above, are not interested in Kristin relaxing on the well-kept grounds of the marina.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Maple Bay to Sidney
Kristin needs to catch the Washington State ferry from Sidney, BC. That means we need to head south, but the wind has been blowing from the south every day. What we need is a north wind... and that is just what we get! For the first time ever, we sail all the way through the twisty Sansum Narrows. We cross Cowichan Bay into Satellite Channel.
The next little stretch approaching Sidney is intriguing. Even though you are getting closer to a big city and giant ferry terminals, as you go behind island after protected island, the city is blocked from view and you feel as if you are drifting through a time warp of ancient lands...and then suddenly you are in Sidney!
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We arrive at the Sidney marina and see that some things are the same...
And some things are different...like the marina's plush, remodeled lounge with three (three!) flat panel tv's! Nicer than any airport lounge and just for sailors.
We hurry Kristin past the tv's and onto the beautiful new boardwalk, heading south for the three blocks to the ferry. Just like the city of Nanaimo further north, government has done a fabulous job making the waterfront beautiful, open, and accessible. Now, if only Bellingham could learn from these sister cities on the water.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Sidney
After seeing Kristin safely onto the ferry, we stroll around Sidney in the hot summer sun, exploring bookstores and discovering our Starbucks gift card is good here, too. We find some shade and sip our refreshingly cold frappacinos. Suddenly, this guy starts trying to get Kelly's attention...
Hey, wait a minute, me too?
It's getting late. We say goodbye to this hustler in expensive Sidney and slide over to nearby Tsehum Harbor to anchor for the night. But, even at 11:00 pm, it is hard to go to bed with such beautiful evening light shining on all of the quaint boats nearby.
Plush lounges, beautiful boardwalks, every amenity, and gorgeous anchorages... Sidney has something for every boater.Monday, June 30, 2008
Sidney to Roche Harbor
Today we need a north wind again, to help us head south back into the US and the San Juan Islands. The wind gods take note of our needs, the moon aligns correctly for favorable tides and, viola! We have north winds and south flowing current in the morning.
We experience another first...crossing Haro Strait under sail the entire way, without running into overwhelming adverse current, or overwhelming wind, and without running out of wind! A couple days before, we also sailed (SAILED!) all the way through Sansum Narrows! We are liking this. We sailed right into Roche Harbor and up to the empty customs dock. No power boats, no pollution, no noise, no rudeness, no waiting! It's a miracle! (or is it the price of fuel, again?)
We clear customs and go ashore to visit this delightful marina, once again. The folks at Roche are rightfully proud of their facilities. Each evening they retire the colors on this green and play the national anthem...
We begin our usual wandering through the gardens...
Past the hotel...
and the church...
But, wait! Here's something new at Roche...
Yes, Segways, have come to the islands. Kelly relents and we rent a pair for some off-road adventure. It's been years since we have been to the Mausoleum, so off we go with David and Bianca, who live in one of the sparkly, new condos, nearby.
At the mausoleum, we learn that the missing chair, at the center table, and the broken column symbolize an unfortunate family issue.
We contemplate what the issue might have been.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Roche Harbor to Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island
Gee, we have to be in Addy, Wa, on the 4th of July, so we better get going. We bypass busy and touristy Friday Harbor and head for Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island.
We time our arrival perfectly to enter the narrow and shallow passage leading to Fisherman Bay. Another gorgeous sunset closes our day.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island to Lummi
Darn, it's morning but the tide is too low for us to leave. I guess we'll just have to head into Lopez Village and see if there is anything we need. We'll go nice and early...about the time that Holly B's Bakery opens and puts out the fresh cinnamon rolls!
As we enjoy the cinnamon rolls, Holly tells us that she is celebrating her 25th anniversary of being in business and that we are invited later in the afternoon for cake! We check the tides, again. What a coincidence, the tide won't be high enough to leave until after the party. So, we get our grocery shopping done across the street, bring that back to the boat, take in some sun at the resort pool, check out what's new at the library, and then head back to Holly B's to help celebrate.
As the tide comes up, so does the wind. And the wind is, again, from the south, just how we need it. We have a ways to go today...
A fantastic sail! We make Peavine Pass (south side of Obstruction Island) right at the appointed slack time (even if we don't find slack!) and the wind just gets stronger from the south. We click off the miles and then, as we turn toward home, east across the north side of Sinclair Island, we click off these pictures...
We can't help but wonder if this is one of the pair of eagles we saw on our first morning, back in Inati Bay. Do they know we're coming back? Are they leading us home?
Our path is plotted below. Not a bad two week's cruise, using only five gallons of fuel in 150 miles for the windless moments and dinghy. Tides and wind took us into twelve beautiful anchorages scattered through the heart of the San Juan and Gulf Islands, looping around Salt Spring Island via Sidney, BC and back.
The last leg turned out to be a quick, early morning sail from Inati Bay back to Squalicum Harbor, seven miles in one hour. We threw all our stuff into the washing machine, dried it, packed it all into the car and headed for Aja and Dave's, clear across the state, in Addy, WA.
Ah, summer!
